THE RISE OF A NEW GENERATION OF FASHION

Tosin Clegg

Fashion has been an integral part of human culture for thousands of years, reflecting social, political, and cultural shifts across different eras. The history of fashion dates back to the early days of human civilization when clothing was primarily functional, and designed to provide protection from the environment. Over time, fashion evolved to express status, identity, and creativity.

The earliest forms of fashion were seen in ancient Egypt, Greece, and Rome, where clothing was often made from natural materials like wool and linen. Egyptians favoured lightweight, linen garments due to the hot climate, while the Greeks and Romans wore draped tunics called peplos and togas, respectively. In these societies, fashion was a signifier of wealth and class; only the elite could afford intricately designed clothing with rich dyes like purple, which was reserved for royalty.

During the Medieval period in Europe (5th to 15th century), fashion became even more elaborate, reflecting the hierarchical structure of society. Sumptuary laws regulated what people could wear based on their social rank. Fabrics like silk, velvet, and fur were worn by nobility, while peasants typically wore simple woollen garments. Women’s attire featured fitted bodices and voluminous skirts, while men sported tunics, tights, and cloaks.

The Renaissance (14th to 17th century) marked a period of great change in fashion. Clothing became more ornate, with the use of lace, embroidery, and luxurious silks. Fashion began to spread beyond the noble class as wealthy merchants and the emerging bourgeoisie sought to emulate the aristocracy. The Baroque and Rococo periods (17th to 18th century) saw exaggerated silhouettes, opulent decorations, and intricate designs.
The 19th century brought significant transformations, largely influenced by the Industrial Revolution. The invention of the sewing machine-made clothes production faster and more accessible. Victorian fashion (1837-1901) in England featured corseted waists, full skirts, and intricate embellishments. For men, suits became the standard of dress, representing the shift toward a more structured and less flamboyant style.

The 20th century saw the rise of a new dawn in fashion, with each decade introducing new trends. The 1920s, known as the “Roaring Twenties,” embraced flapper dresses, short haircuts, and a break from traditional norms. The 1950s reintroduced elegance with Dior’s “New Look,” while the 1960s saw bold prints and miniskirts as youth culture challenged the establishment. By the 1980s, power dressing took centre stage, reflecting women’s growing presence in the workplace.
Today, fashion is more diverse and globalised than ever. Technology and social media have accelerated trends and democratized fashion, allowing people from all walks of life to express themselves through clothing. Sustainability and inclusivity are now major themes, with many designers embracing eco-friendly materials and celebrating diverse body types.
Throughout history, fashion has been a mirror of society, showcasing its values, aspirations, and cultural shifts, making it more than just a way to dress but a form of storytelling and self-expression.

Today, African designers are championing a new wave of fashion that not only showcases their creative prowess but also firmly roots itself in the continent’s rich heritage. This resurgence of Afrocentric styles is more than just a passing trend; it represents a movement where tradition, history, and modern aesthetics converge to redefine the global fashion narrative. Designers like Emmanuel Junior Yeboah of the sustainable clothing line, YEHBO, are at the forefront of this revolution, taking it upon themselves to create garments that honour the past while embracing the future.

For many African designers, fashion is a form of storytelling, where every stitch, colour, and pattern have a purpose. They tap into their cultural archives, drawing inspiration from their surroundings, indigenous craftsmanship, and the legacy of their ancestors. This is marked by a need to return to locally sourced materials, traditional dyeing techniques, and the reinvention of age-old weaving patterns, allowing designers to preserve cultural narratives while presenting them in new and exciting ways.

Brands like YEHBO are producing art that is steeped in cultural significance and progressive thought. Emmanuel Junior Yeboah’s work seamlessly merges traditional African motifs with contemporary cuts, creating collections that appeal to a global audience without losing the essence of his Ghanaian roots. This blend of the old and new is helping to redefine the perception of African fashion on the international stage, pushing back against stereotypes and misconceptions.

The first dress is a burst of colour and energy! The vibrant mix of pink, yellow, and blue patterns immediately draws attention and exudes a cheerful, lively vibe. It’s definitely a piece that can light up a room and put anyone in a good mood.

The structure of the dress is simple and flattering, with a fitted bodice and a slightly flared hem that adds a playful touch. The ruffled detail at the bottom is a lovely addition—it introduces a hint of movement and femininity, making the outfit feel less rigid and more fun. The short sleeves keep it casual and perfect for warm weather, while the high neckline maintains a modest balance.

What makes this design stand out is the print itself. The intricate, geometric patterns and floral motifs are very eye-catching and have a traditional African feel that’s been modernized into a chic silhouette. This is a dress that lets the print do the talking—no need for heavy accessories. Just a pair of simple shoes, like the models, and you’re ready to go!

The dress works great for casual outings or daytime events where you want to make a statement without being too formal.
Yeboah plays with shapes for his designs to create a look that feels bold and fresh. Critics loved the collection for its creativity and strong cultural message. The outfits felt like a celebration of diverse identities. The collection proved that African fashion can stand out on the world stage, blending heritage with high fashion.

The second design is also a mesmerising piece. This design is playful and full of life. The vibrant colours and intricate patterns make it perfect for someone who enjoys standing out in a crowd. The mix of bold yellows, blues, works harmoniously together, creating a stunning visual impact.
The silhouette of the dress is simple, yet the flared hemline adds a touch of fun and movement, giving it a flirty vibe. The short puffy sleeves and high neckline balance the look, keeping it modest yet stylish, while the fitted waist flatters the figure, creating a feminine shape.
It’s the kind of dress you could wear to a casual outing, a brunch, or even to a cultural event, and still look fabulous. It’s playful enough for a daytime event but could also work with the right accessories for an evening gathering.

His Afafa SS20 collection is a perfect example of what creativity in fashion means. One of the standout features of the Afafa SS20 collection is his use of fabrics. He chose sustainable, locally sourced materials, showing his respect for traditional craftsmanship while supporting eco-friendly fashion.
As African designers continue to push boundaries and experiment with new forms, patterns, and techniques, they are inspiring a new generation of creatives across the continent. They are showing young African designers that it is possible to create world-class fashion while staying true to one’s roots. Each piece in the collection tells a story of identity, pride, and transformation. Inspired by his Ghanaian roots, Yeboah used rich, earthy tones, one that is proudly African and globally influential.

The rise of brands like Yehbo signals a future where African fashion is not just consumed but celebrated and respected on its own terms. Through their innovative work, designers like Emmanuel Junior Yeboah are showing that African fashion is not just about clothes but about reclaiming narratives, preserving culture, and making bold statements about identity and heritage. This new generation of designers is not simply adding to the global fashion scene; they are redefining it, proving that Africa is not just a source of inspiration but a powerhouse of creativity, craftsmanship, and style.