Uptown Girl Collection: Exploring Femininity in African Fashion

Tosin Clegg

Femininity in African fashion has been passed down through different generations, with mothers, grandmothers, and other female figures shaping a woman’s sense of style. The passing down of this traditional African fashion and style creates a deep connection to the feminine feel. This ritual encouraged cultural continuity, allowing each generation to interpret femininity in their own way.

Since ancient times, women have always dressed and showcased themselves as a way of fighting against patriarchy and colonial norms. African women have claimed their identity by wearing traditional attire and styles that empower them and celebrate their femininity. This form of resistance against stereotypical wear continues in this present time, with women using fashion to break societal expectations and generational barriers gaining their place in society.

African fashion also reflects the sections where femininity is expressed, acknowledging that a woman’s identity is shaped by several factors, which includes; race, class, and sexuality. Designers are crafting design pieces that accommodate different body types, skin tones, and even lifestyles, making sure that women worldwide can find clothing that resonates with their unique experience of femininity. This method of inclusivity not only celebrates diversity but also encourages women to honour all parts of their identity.

Femininity in African fashion has greatly evolved over the decades, showing how much society has changed. From the post-independence era, where women celebrated Western fashion as a representation of modernity, to this present era, where pride is restored in African heritage, fashion has reflected the journey of African women.
A woman’s femininity is mostly seen in the way she dresses and how she carries herself. Clothing is more than a fabric; it is a form of self-expression that reveals a woman’s personality and also provides a sense of comfort.

Femininity in fashion is not only restricted to one form of dressing. A lot of people view femininity as “Wearing a beautiful dress”. However, in fashion it can be found in the structure of a well-tailored suit, the hem of a skirt or the soft flow of a silk dress.
How women perceive their femininity in fashion has a psychological aspect to it which plays a very important role. Most women go through some sort of ritualistic process when choosing an outfit. What a person wears can influence their behaviour, emotions, and even how they think, this is a concept known as “enclothed cognition.”
For African women, wearing their native attire or design patterns that have a cultural symbolism can awaken a sense of pride, strength, and connection to their roots, strengthening their sense of femininity on both a conscious and subconscious level.

You can tell how a woman views herself from every single choice she makes in her outfit – it could be the shape of her neckline, the length of her skirt or even the type of fabric she selects.

The power of social media is not talked about enough, as it allows African women to express their femininity. Platforms like Instagram and Pinterest give women a chance to showcase their style, start a trend, and connect with similar minds across the world. In this digital space, African women are allowed to share their unique expressions of femininity with a global audience, while also drawing inspiration from other distinct cultures as well.
Colours and patterns play a role in how a woman’s femininity is perceived. Light colours can show a sense of softness and warmth while bold prints can evoke a strong and fearless nature. A woman who embraces her femininity through fashion can choose to go for a delicate, flowing dress that sways anytime she walks or an outfit that highlights her figure in a way that makes her feel beautiful.

Accessories also add to the feminine perception. The choice of handbag, pieces of jewellery or shoes adds a personal touch to the outfit, completely making it ‘hers’. A simple string of pearl neckpiece can bring “elegance” to mind, while a brightly coloured scarf can add a youthful vibe.
Femininity in fashion is not just about outward appearance. A woman’s outfit can empower her, encouraging her to step out into the world and hold her head high while she walks. It’s about accepting her body, her choices and her sense of self.
Modern African fashion uses traditional fabrics like Ankara, Aso-oke and Kente in crafting perfectly beautiful pieces that resonate with today’s woman. These fabrics that were once reserved for special occasions are now being displayed in everyday wear, which allows women to represent their culture without looking overdressed.

Femininity in African fashion is also about honouring the diversity of the female form.

African designers have long used their designs to celebrate womanhood and femininity, infusing tradition with modern fashion styles to glorify the beauty and strength of women. Designers like Deola Sagoe and Lisa Folawiyo are known for their unique and creative designs that modestly highlight feminine features.

According to Leading Ladies Africa, Deola a Nigerian designer, gained popularity in the early 2000s after she pioneered the introduction of true African-inspired fashion at the renowned Alta Roma Alta Moda fashion week. Her designs often include bodices and flowing skirts, which accommodate the diverse shapes of women.

Another prominent Nigerian designer, Lisa Folawiyo brought Ankara prints to the spotlight in the view of the world through her label, Jewel by Lisa, which she started in 2005. She brought these traditional fabrics to a new light by adding decorative details like sequins and beads, creating designs that infuse African culture with modern fashion.

In addition, Maki Oh, a brand by Amaka Osakwe founded in 2010 created designs that also contributed to celebrating womanhood. In her designs, Osakwe incorporates cultural symbols that give a powerful narrative about femininity. Osakwe uses traditional techniques like Adire – a Nigerian tie and dye material in her work, creating patterns that speak about the experiences of African women.

According to Business Of Fashion, the label came to the limelight in the U.S in 2013 when the first lady at the time, Michelle Obama wore it on a trip to Johannesburg and later invited the designer, Osakwe to join her at the “Celebration of Design” event at the White House, further elevating the brand’s place on the global stage.

Recent African designers now follow in the footsteps of pioneering African designers, creating unique designs that communicate the strength and experience of African women while celebrating their femininity.

Olamide Adams, Creative Director of the Fabric Etcetera, is one of the very talented self-taught designers in the African fashion industry who uses her craft to honour the beauty of women and craft designs that tell the African story. She grew her passion for fashion from her childhood where she learned a lot from her mother who was a fabric seller in Lagos state, Nigeria.

Her latest drop – the 2023 Uptown Girl Collection shows how she perceives femininity in African fashion. Let’s review a few of her designs.

Dress Rolly is a perfectly created set for two-piece lovers. This unique design features a wrap top that is made from metallic mirror silk, with bold ruffle sleeves add a dramatic look to the outfit, giving it a striking impression.

The wrap top gives the fit a V-neckline effect, which adds to the overall structure of the look. The top is fitted at the waist, highlighting the body’s natural curves.

The look is completed with a luxurious aesthetically pleasing fitted brocade skirt with a polished blend of cream and brown colours that falls to a modest length above the knee.

The overall proportions are balanced, having the sleekness of the skirt balancing out the volume of the sleeves, creating a harmonious look.
Designed with a keen eye for detail, the outfit resonates with those who understand elegance and value creativity.

This outfit comes in different skirt lengths – long and short. This design showcases a beautiful off-shoulder neckline drawing attention to the collarbone and shoulders with a fitted top that highlights the slim waist and a pencil skirt that accentuates the body shape.

The corset outline on the top is made of a sky-blue hand-woven fabric (Aso-oke) further emphasizing the African culture. The poet-like sleeves add a playful touch to the overall shape of the set that is both complimentary and stylish.

It brings together traditional African fabric with modern style, making it an eye-catching piece that stands out in any wardrobe. This dress is made from a floral Ankara print, presenting a long skirt and a knee-length skirt option. The long skirt can be worn for a more formal look and the knee-length skirt for a chicer and more contemporary look.

The Dress Zee’s thoughtful design and attention to detail make it a unique simple style that highlights the blend of African culture and modern trends. The option to switch between skirt lengths creates flexibility, allowing you to tailor the dress to different events, while the colourful Ankara print makes certain that you evoke a bold fashion statement.
Overall, this particular collection is made in honour of African women’s femininity. In creating these masterpieces, the designer had all women in mind, tailoring these designs to meet the needs of everybody. Ready to explore femininity in African fashion? The Uptown Girl collection is made especially for you.