NIGERIA, NAY EJIGBO, IS NEXT DOOR TO ABIDJAN

There is strong cultural connection between Abidjan and Ejigbo, a small town in Osun State, writes Bell Ihua

Nigeria has some fascinating connections with Cote d’Ivoire which many citizens of both countries are either unaware of or simply do not appreciate. Five years ago, my family and I spent our Christmas holiday in Abidjan, the beautiful capital city of Cote d’Ivoire. It was our first visit and we were keen to explore the city – its food, art, music, culture, people, and whatever more we could soak in within our three-week vacation. Not long after arriving, we settled into the sprawling neighbourhood of Cocody, home to major public offices, schools, hotels, markets, and religious institutions. An unforgettable three-weeks it was, and the memory lingers in our hearts to date! Incidentally, within the period of our visit, Nigerian music superstar, Davido, was scheduled to perform at a major concert, with the likes of Awilo Longomba, Rick Ross, Fally Ipupa, Congolese Zaiko Band, and the legendary Alpha Blondy. Unfortunately, since we had no one to babysit the kids, I missed the opportunity to watch a live performance of Sweet Fanta Diallo, my favourite from Blondy’s stable. Nonetheless, it was splendid to run into Senegalese-American singer, record producer, and entrepreneur, Akon, at the famous Hotel D’Ivoire.

From sightseeing, we visited a couple of indigenous Ivorian churches, and branches of two Nigerian Pentecostal churches, to get a hang of how church was done there. Amusingly, we observed some striking similarities and contrasts which could make a good story for another day. The games park at Abidjan Mall turned out to be the children’s favourite attraction, while the Alloco dromes (fried plantain and roasted fish joints) caught the attention of wifey and I. We never forget the delightful six-hour road trip to and fro Yamoussoukro, the administrative capital of Cote d’Ivoire. It was to visit the Basilica of Our Lady of Peace, the largest church in the world, as listed by Guinness World Records. The monument is one of the legacies of the late Ivorian President, Felix Houphouet-Boigny, which he gifted to the Catholic church. It was truly a sight to behold, and unarguably one of Africa’s unsung tourist attractions. No wonder the memory of President Houphouet-Boigny remains alive in the hearts of Ivorians, even though he passed in 1993!

Abidjan lived up to its reputation as Petit Paris, or Small Paris as it’s fondly called. We enjoyed visiting the upmarket and affluent districts of Bietry, Cocody and Riviera, as well as the backstreets and suburbs of Abobo, Treichville and Yopougon. I had the privilege of delivering an unexpected guest lecture at a youth seminar organised at the Methodist University, and it afforded me the opportunity to meet and interact with several students, entrepreneurs, and regular Ivorians. At the end of the three-weeks, Abidjan left such a remarkable impression on us, which I had previously blogged about in a piece titled Reflections from Abidjan. For instance, Ivorians espouse the values of mutual respect, trust and conviviality towards one another. They are friendly, adaptable and willing to help strangers. They have a natural affinity for the creative arts, feel at home adorning African fabrics, and love French-subtitled Nollywood movies. They prefer to hold multiple jobs, as opposed to regular nine-to-fives. Ivorians practice religious tolerance and peaceful co-existence, as religion is considered a private affair.

However, the highpoint of our vacation was discovering some enthralling connections between Nigeria and Cote d’Ivoire. Imagine how astonished I was to discover a locality in Abidjan known as Biafra. A rambunctious settlement occupied predominantly by people of Igbo descent; bustling with trade, enterprise, and creative energy, the typical hallmarks of the Igbos. On inquiry, I was informed it was an area earmarked by the late President Houphouet-Boigny to accommodate Igbos exiled during the Nigeria Civil War. As at the time of our visit, the area retained a strong social, cultural and commercial presence of indigenous Igbo people, who have settled in Cote d’Ivoire and established thriving businesses.

Another fascinating revelation from our vacation was discovering the extremely strong connection between Abidjan and Ejigbo, a small town in Osun State, in southwest Nigeria. It is said that four out of every five persons of Yoruba extraction you find in Abidjan hail from Ejigbo. It is the headquarters of Ejigbo Local Government Area (LGA) located: 40 kilometres northwest of Osogbo, the state capital; 35 kilometres northeast of Iwo; 30 kilometres north of Ogbomoso; and 24 kilometres southeast of Ede. For those who may not know, Ejigbo is the only town in Nigeria where the French language is spoken colloquially (besides the French village school in Badagry). In Ejigbo it is normal to find children playing on the streets and communicating freely in French; while adults can also be found having French tête-à-têtes. Similarly, parents christen their children with French names like Pierre, Bebe, Jean, Marie, etc.

Ejigbo people love Attieke, a popular Ivorian staple made from cassava, and Alloco, ripe plantain, fried in palm oil and served with braised fish. Buildings in Ejigbo are patterned after classic European architecture, displaying unique cornices, window shutters and architraves, reflecting their French-Ivorian influence. Every Ejigbo indigene has a family member living in Cote d’Ivoire, and it’s not surprising to find 70 to 80-year-olds who were either born or raised in Ivory Coast (as the country was previously called). This gives you an indication of the age-long migratory ties that exist between the Ejigbo people and Cote d’Ivoire, dating back to 1902 when the first set of migrants were said to have arrived in Treichville, a suburb of Abidjan.

Like the Ivorians, Ejigbo indigenes have been reported to be hardworking, honest, peace-loving, and somewhat self-effacing. A good number of them visit Abidjan frequently, as their second home. And there are multiple buses that commute directly from Ejigbo to Abidjan weekly. This perhaps explains a common saying among Ejigbo indigenes: Abidjan ni eyinkule omo ilu Ejigbo, which can be translated to mean: “Abidjan is just at the backyard of the homes of Ejigbo indigenes”, and figuratively describes the extremely close ties that exist between Ejigbo and Abidjan. In conclusion, it is amazing to see the level of diversity that exists within Nigeria, and its immense potential for cultural exchange, migration, linguistics, tourism, and hospitality. It highlights the paradox of having fellow citizens, whom you consider brethren or neighbours, being socialised from an entirely different part of the world. And it reminds me of the Ebu People of Delta state, with their famous Ekpechor Ebu Wonder Masquerade, whose native dialect is pure unadulterated Igala language. Another story for the future! I often wonder how many Nigerians appreciate these quirky facts and paradoxes that litter our anthropology.

 Ihua mni, is a Professor of Practice in Opinion Research at Coal City University, Enugu, and Executive Director at Africa Polling Institute. He can be reached on Twitter @Bellemskey