Rebecca Osewa: Nigeria is Capable of Becoming a Global Player in the Fashion Industry

 The Founder and CEO of Yield Initiatives,Rebecca Osewa in this interview , explains the drive to enhance cotton production capacity and foster sustainable farming practices in Nigeria. 

Tell us about your background and what inspired Yield Initiatives

I am a British Nigerian, raised in London, with a decade of experience in the creative industry and a degree in Fashion and Textiles from the University of the Arts London. My goal is to contribute to Nigeria’s fashion industry and overall prosperity. I also have expertise in textile production, including weaving and printed textiles.

In 2014, I managed various fashion designers at Africa Fashion Week London. Later that year, I gained valuable experience working for a textile company in Ghana, deepening my understanding of African textile production. In 2015, I opened my first studio in London, showcasing my designs at the New Designers UK exhibition in 2016.

However, my perspective shifted during a 2018 visit to manufacturing hubs in Kenya. I discovered sustainability challenges in African cotton production, including limited raw materials and poor infrastructure. This experience led to the inception of Yield Initiatives in 2020. It was also a response to the frustrations I encountered while trying to establish a textile factory in Nigeria.

From 2016 to 2020, I focused on building external partnerships and conducting extensive market research in Nigeria.

What is Yield Initiatives’ primary goal and how does it aim to achieve it?

Yield Initiatives is on a mission to bring life back to Nigeria’s cotton textile industry, paving the way for a more prosperous Africa. By fostering a shift in mindset and encouraging behavioral change, our focus is to rejuvenate ecosystems, ultimately leading to social revitalization. Our commitment lies in enhancing the living standards of cotton growers in Nigeria, believing that the revival of the cotton textile industry can provide a sustainable and positive future. Africa supplies nearly 10% of the world’s cotton, but much of it is sent to Asia for further processing.

As per the Africa Development Bank, the African continent accounts for only about 16% of the global textiles market valued at $1.6 trillion in 2015, with Asia-Pacific dominating at almost 60%. To address this, we are developing niche cotton markets, offering better prospects for Nigerian smallholders by ensuring fairer market returns. For instance, organic cotton presents several advantages for African producers, providing premium prices and supporting a broader range of farmers, especially women who are often marginalised.

What is Yield Initiatives’ strategy for revitalizing the cotton textile garment supply chain in Nigeria, and what challenges are being addressed?

Yield Initiatives is dedicated to enhancing cotton production capacity and promoting organic practices among farmers. We are joining forces with Rebecca Osewa Group LTD and Rebecca Osewa Organic Seeds LTD, which focus on seed multiplication and distribution, right at the beginning of the supply chain. This approach will increase the availability of cotton lint for textile production in Nigeria.

Could you explain the specific goals and strategies Yield Initiatives has in place to improve the living standards of cotton growers in Nigeria?

Yield Initiatives adheres to core values that guide our mission to enhance the living standards of cotton growers in Nigeria. Our approach is characterized by sustainability and measurable improvement goals. We provide support to populations in low-income markets through our supply chain practices, and we actively promote diversity, equity, and inclusion.

Transparency is integral to our supply chain, with a strong belief in cost-sharing and global economic growth. We are committed to communicating our progress to key stakeholders and audiences throughout the journey to sustainable sourcing. Our consistency in incorporating social and environmental impact into decision-making is essential for our success and profitability.

Our commitment extends to positive social and environmental responsibility, with a focus on conserving the environment, reducing waste, and serving the target beneficiary group—the cotton farmers in Nigeria. We aim to address issues such as poverty reduction, food security, the circular economy, gender equality, and energetic sustainability.

What are the economic implications of the global cotton market worth $38.54 on Nigeria?

The cotton industry in Nigeria holds significant economic implications. Globally, the fashion industry is expected to double in the next decade, generating a staggering $5 trillion annually. In the USA alone, $284 billion is spent on fashion retail, with the purchase of 19 billion garments. Nigeria’s textile industry contributes to this value chain, starting with cotton production and moving through various processes to create fashionable garments.

At each step of the value chain, more value is added. By targeting the fashion industry, we are essentially addressing the entire value chain, from smallholder farmers to fashion designers. While still in its early stages, the African fashion industry is expanding, driven by a growing interest in African cultural traditions and high-quality craftsmanship. Nigeria, with its strong cultural identity and heritage, has the potential to position itself as a major global player in the fashion industry, benefiting both women and youth.

In what ways does the fashion industry, valued at $1.4 trillion, intersect with the goals of Yield Initiatives in Nigeria?

The fashion industry, valued at $1.4 trillion, has a significant connection with Yield Initiatives in Nigeria. First, it means that Yield Initiatives witnessed the revival of the cotton supply chain in Nigeria. This revival is powered by sustainable energy, and it involves every industry playing its part.

Notably, the cotton, textile, and fashion sectors, along with agribusinesses, present opportunities for renewable energy-powered businesses and the creation of green jobs. This is a big step towards sustainable development, encompassing practices like recycling textile products, reducing toxic substances, exploring alternative raw materials, minimizing waste, cutting energy usage, adopting renewable energy sources, and considering the entire product life cycle.

How can Yield Initiatives empower Nigerian cotton farmers with mechanisation and technology?

Yield Initiatives tends to use at some point is precision spraying, a technology that focuses on dosing efficiency in a field by identifying the crops information, such as canopy density and shape and structure of the plant. This analysis of each field while spraying helps reduce waste, avoid unnecessarily high costs, and maintain production efficiency. Any efficiency helps farmers continue to stay in business and maximise their profits.

How does sustainability factor into Yield Initiatives’ work in the fashion and cotton Industries?

Sustainability is at the core of Yield Initiatives’ mission. Our focus is on creating a system where life thrives for farmers. To shift mindsets, we collaborate with partners to train farmers in organic farming and how to implement the organic agriculture internal control system. The advantages of adopting these practices are significant.

How will you collaborate with local communities and stakeholders to achieve your objectives?

Yield Initiatives values strong partnerships in our mission. We closely collaborate with ORAIN (Organic and Agroecology Initiative in Nigeria), a vital consortium member that oversees organic farming training and internal control systems for our operations.

Could you highlight some of the achievements or success stories of Yield Initiatives in empowering cotton farmers?

This year in May 2023, we proudly executed our inaugural Non-GMO seed trial in Abeokuta, Ogun State. While our original plan was to work with 50 farmers across two states, challenges led us to focus on one state. Despite these hurdles, we secured a 2.5-hectare farm on a one-year lease, which should yield approximately 1,200 kg of cotton. This cotton will enable us to create around 4,000 T-shirts, a project we’re actively working on now.

What are the key challenges you’ve faced in your journey?

Along our journey, establishing lasting partnerships, securing finances, and thriving in a conducive environment have been significant hurdles. Notably, we had to self-fund the creation of 20 hand ginning machines due to the unavailability of operational ginning companies. This situation led us to employ women in ginning, starting with just three and scaling up to 20 due to increasing demand.

What do you envision as the long-term benefits and impact of Yield Initiatives?

Our vision for Yield Initiatives is to create a system that respects farmers, promotes the use of 100% Non-GMO (Organic) Cotton, empowers women economically, and harnesses Africa’s immense potential. Our long-term goal is to enhance social and governance practices, contributing to poverty reduction, food security, a circular economy, and sustainable energy practices. Together, we aspire to make a positive, lasting impact on the cotton industry and the lives of cotton growers in Nigeria.